South America / Letter 3

Nov 5, 1998

Hello Friends, new and old.:

A big hello to everyone, I  traveled from Los Mochis direct to Mazatlan on Highway 15. I can see increasing amounts of cactus, dry rocky soil, along with some traffic. The roads have been great and the scenery is beautiful as I travel along the Pacific Ocean. I spent a night in Mazatlan with Kale, Hanna, Karen and Jan Krieger. They are Montana neighbors that teach English in a school in Mazatlan. I body surfed the waves on very sandy beaches and took an overnight trip to Teacapan. This is south of Mazatlan about 80 kilometers and is an estuary full of osprey, pink spoonbills, egrets, cranes, and many more shore birds. The birds are increasing because of their migrations south. I camped Sunday night on a sandy beach that had little crabs running all over. If you like shrimp...the fisherman sold directly from their nets.

For those interested: The peso is the Mexican dollar and the exchange rate is 9.85 to one dollar US.

Monday I continued on from Teacapan back to the toll road so that I can make time. I still have a long ways to go to get through Mexico. These roads tend to be very good.

It is a holiday in Mexico called The Day of The Dead. Nov 1st honors the children and Nov 2nd honors everyone. It is large procession to the cemetery, bringing flowers, candles, and food. This is a very big celebration and very colorful. I watched a procession at Chapala (80 kilometers south of Guadalajara). I spent the night in Chapala by a lake that is drying up because of high usage for agriculture and population of Guadalajara.

My plan had been to stop through Morelia for the large butterfly sanctuaries. I'm too early because they have not migrated this far. I understand that you can become surrounded by butterflies. Oh well, next time.

Onto Mexico City and head south to Oaxaca. ..An early start and advice on how to get around Mexico City left me with great confidence. Ha Ha Ha! I found myself with one wrong turn right in the middle of Mexico City. Wow! You would come to an intersection and 8 streets would emerge into the center (like spokes on a wheel). I asked directions and luck had it a gentleman was heading out of the city. I tried to follow and that was a challenge! I made it, but only because of the kindness of someone and we don't even know his name. I must admit the Mexican people are most helpful. But if you are traveling. . .heed the warning of the book. . .I have not always been given the right change back at the gas stations. Well, told you of getting lost but the city was beautiful. Old architecture, colorful people, and lots of cars. I have never seen so many VW Bugs in one place. There would be 8-10 lined up at a stoplight. It looked like a race. ( At times it seemed like a race.)

I headed onto Oaxaca, which is at 5000 feet, and the climate is mild with clean air. This is one of the oldest continuously inhabited regions with human settlement dating back to 8000 BC. The first civilizaton was the Zapotecs and I visited Monte Alban. It was a Zapotec ruin that was taken over by the Mixtecs and they in turn felll to the Aztecs. The ruins included temples, game for playing ball, medical history that is recorded on stones, water containment areas. It was a most impressive area that is on the top of a mountain.

Oh yea! The fleas!  I can't forget the fleas...I caught a herd of fleas passing through my bed one night. The whole herd stopped to forage. I'm not sure but the $7.00 hotel should have been my first guess. Needless to say I have washed a few clothes and hope that doesn't happen again.

Well from here I go to Guatemala. Adios till next time.
BEN