South America / Letter 14

Car

Jan. 4, 1999.....Caranavi, Bolivia

I traveled northeast to Caranavi, Bolivia. Paul and Jay Mikaelsen, my brother and sister-in-law, run Radio Caranavi, youth projects, and are just starting a television station for this area under the World Mission Prayer League. They are also helping to set up a cleft lip and palate medical team for this fall. I am looking forward to returning to see them later this year.

On New Years eve, Paul and Jay's friends invited us over for a Parrillada (Bolivian grill-out). It started with ribeye steaks, followed by ribs, then a slice of roast, on to ubre (cow's udder), and then tripe (grilled intestines). This was complimented by a cheese rice casserole and fresh vegetable salad. I have never eaten so much meat in one sitting in my life...................You probably want to know what umbre tastes like?!?! It is tender, the texture of a hard cheese, and didn't have a strong taste. I must admit I only had a few bites. The next cuisine adventure was tripe................a little bit more tender than a salty rubber band and I managed to get one mouthful into my stomach and it stayed there. The evening was spent with fire works and at midnight everyone placed 12 grapes in a glass with champagne. At the stroke of midnight you drink the champagne and eat each grape making a wish for each of the 12 months. New Years is a festive time for friends and family that lasts for 2-3 days continuously. I swear Bolivians never sleep.

I took a side trip north/northwest to Rurrenabaque, Bolivia. This is in the lowlands of the amazon. It took me seven hours to drive 160 miles with only one flat tire, one landslide, and some very big pot holes. You have to see the roads here to believe them. They are very dangerous, traversing along shear cliffs and are often closed or blocked by mud slides and swollen rivers. Some days you can only make 100 miles in a full day of travel. The weather is very hot (85-90F) and humid because the rainy season has started. I took a guided boat tour through the jungle and savanah.
I saw parrots, macaws, eagles, raptors, many colorful little birds (sorry, but I don't have a bird book with me), butterflies, spider monkeys, capuchina monkeys, howler monkeys, snakes, alligators, 5 jochis.....you have to look that one up because I don't know what it is in English....., amazon porcupine, and much more. The area was teaming with wild life, flowers, and green vegetation. All I can say is fantastic! My guide caught an alligator and let me hold it and look at it. They are incredible creature.

Tomorrow I head to LaPaz, Bolivia and tour other parts of Bolivia with Paul and Jay. I hope to write soon, but email has been very erratic. Sorry, but I have not been able to send pictures because of how slow Peru and Bolivia's email has been. Hope everyone is having a wonderful New Year.

Adios, Ben